Note 13 - The Ultimate Stockholm City Guide
Wearing: By Malene Birger dress, Aritzia bag & Miu Miu ballet flats in Stockholm
I think Stockholm might be my favourite city. I’ve always loved travelling to Scandinavia, but it’s in this city that I feel the most at ease, calm, grounded, and completely myself. The architecture, proximity to nature (hello archipelago), and effortlessly chic vibe give me so much energy when I visit. I also find the rhythm is a bit slower and less hectic here than places like Copenhagen (but don’t get me wrong, I also love the Danish capital).
I was there again last week after a short weekend trip to Göteborg, and it inspired me to put together a guide featuring some of my favourite spots from visits over the years: from cafés to bakeries where to get the best buns, my top shopping guide for scandi fashion lovers and activities you can do throughout the seasons.
If you’re planning a trip, I’d recommend going in May or June, when the sun is at its peak and before the city quiets down for the summer. That’s when you’ll be able to truly experience the magic of Stockholm, but of course, if you come at this time of the year you’ll also experience all of Christmas. Basically, there’s always a reason to visit Stockholm!
Grab a tea and get comfortable because it’s a long one!
What I wore this week in Stockholm
By Malene Birger coat
By Malene Birger shirt
Arket coat, By Malene Birger jeans, Vagabond boots, Totême bag
I think what differentiates Stockholm from other Scandi capitals is the understatedness and minimalism. Swedes are a little bit more reserved with their style, but always put together and elegant.
I found a few secondhand pieces during my stay and wore some right away, like this long checkered coat and this striped shirt, both from my favourite brand, By Malene Birger. In the third picture, I’m wearing my trusty wool coat from Arket, cream jeans and comfortable boots to walk around the city. I really felt like myself wearing these outfits. I think it’s also because, for Canadian winters, you have to wear so many layers and boots to weather the snow, while here I was still able to wear nice clothes without destroying them or being uncomfortable.
Everyday Delights
Totême T-Lock bag
Meeting Carolina Storm at her gallery
Julbord at Ulriksdals Värdshus
It was hard to narrow my trip down to just three delightful moments, but a few truly stood out. The first was going for a julbord with my friends. A julbord is a traditional Swedish Christmas buffet where you work your way through seven different plates, from herring and cold fish to cured meats, warm dishes, and finally dessert. We went to Ulriksdals Värdshus, which was incredibly cozy and beautiful. We were welcomed by the fire with glögg (mulled wine) before heading in, and the décor was absolutely stunning. I loved how traditional the whole experience felt.
Another highlight was meeting Carolina Storm, the writer behind the newsletter Storm Journal and my style icon since 2009, back when she had her blog Fashion Squad. I visited her gallery, and she was the sweetest, offering me tea, and we chatted together for quite a while. It left me so inspired to pursue more creative hobbies. Her gallery, Galerie Storm, is an absolute must-visit if you’re in Stockholm.
And finally, I got my hands on the Totême T-Lock clutch, a piece I had been eyeing and saving for for a long time. It’s a truly stunning piece that embodies the brand’s minimal codes, and I love that it will forever remind me of my time in Stockholm and getting it at the brand’s flagship.
- My ultimate guide to Stockholm -
STAY
Ett Hem
Ett Hem
Ett Hem
Where do I even begin with Ett Hem? It feels almost otherworldly, an intimate, impeccably curated sanctuary where every detail has been thoughtfully chosen by its owner, Jeanette Mix. The hotel is spread across three stunning private houses that have been transformed into a true luxury hideaway.
I stayed for one night last summer, and I still dream about it. When I eventually renovate my home, Ett Hem will be my design blueprint. The staff are wonderfully attentive, the food is exceptional (more on that in the restaurant section!), and the location in Lärkstaden is perfect. It’s quiet yet close to both Vasastan and Östermalm.
Rent an apartment in Vasastan, Östermalm or Södermalm
Speaking of Vasastan and Östermalm, these are two neighbourhoods I recommend staying in, and I’d add Södermalm to the list if you like something trendier. All three are walkable, beautiful, and give you a feel for real Stockholm life.
I suggest booking an Airbnb so you can live like a local. I stayed in this one last year and absolutely loved it (it’s not always available, but worth checking, you never know!).
I’d also love to try the Stockholm Stadshotell, seems like such a classic and well-run hotel!
SHOP
ATP Atelier
By Malene Birger
Arkivet purchases
Arkivet (multiple locations - my favourites are Vasastan and Östermalm)
In my Scandinavian wardrobe post, I mentioned that Arkivet is my favourite spot for finding second-hand gems. A huge portion of my wardrobe comes from there. They receive 500+ new pieces every day across their locations, and most items are nearly new and in impeccable condition. They carry tons of Scandi and mid-range brands. It does take time to go through the racks, but that’s part of the treasure hunt. Try visiting different locations and at different times of the week!
By Malene Birger
You’re probably tired of hearing me talk about this brand by now, but it’s truly at the top of my list and perfectly reflects the aesthetic I gravitate toward. Their Stockholm store is stunning, filled with books, decor, and beautiful details.
Totême
Right across the street from By Malene Birger is the Totême flagship. The space is a work of art, with its architecture, spiral staircase, and cozy sitting area on the second floor. If you’re into Scandi fashion, it’s a must-visit.
House of Dagmar
Also on Biblioteksgatan is the House of Dagmar flagship. It was recently redesigned and is absolutely worth the stop. Their jackets and sculptural tops are some of my favourites.
ATP Atelier
My favourite handbags come from ATP Atelier. They’re understated, cool, and very practical. If you visit their store and are on the hunt for a bag, I can’t recommend the Assisi shoulder bag enough.
Nordiska Kompaniet (NK)
I love a good department store, and NK is something special. Around Christmas, the window displays are magical, full of art, clothing, and seasonal charm. The rest of the year, it’s a great place to browse a wide selection of Nordic brands.
The English Bookshop in Södermalm
A wonderful bookstore right in the heart of Södermalm. I especially love the Scandinavian literature section; there’s nothing better than reading a book set in the city or country you’re visiting.
By the waterfront
Stockholm architecture, love the rounded towers!
BAKERIES & CAFÉS
Stora Bageriet
My 25th birthday at Fabrique bakery
À La Lo Café Cantine
In my opinion, this bakery makes the best buns in the entire city. Their kardemummabullar and kanelbullar are incredibly soft, perfectly spiced, and always fresh out of the oven. It’s a popular spot, so you’ll likely find a bit of a queue, but it’s absolutely worth the wait. If you’re visiting in summer, they have a charming terrace where you can sit outside to enjoy your fika in the sun.
Fabrique is a Stockholm institution, and their Gamla Stan locations are especially charming. Their cardamom buns are consistently delicious, and it’s the perfect stop while wandering through the old town’s narrow streets.
A lovely café in Vasastan filled with soft pastel colours and a relaxed atmosphere. They serve brunch all day, with fresh, beautifully presented dishes in the most stylish plates (think lots of Hay pieces). It’s a great spot to sit with a book or catch up with friends.
LUNCH & DINNER
The kitchen at Ett Hem
Bakfickan’s meatballs
Östermalm Saluhall
Simply my favourite place in Stockholm. I’ve been for lunch twice, and each time you choose between a three or four-course menu plus dessert. They’re all a surprise, though I highly recommend saying yes to the pasta dish. Both times, I was lucky enough to be seated in the kitchen, watching the chefs prepare everything with local ingredients, some straight from the garden. The décor feels incredibly homey, and it's almost as if time slows down while you’re there. I’ve also had some of the best dishes of my life at this place. Honestly, my death-row meal would be another lunch at Ett Hem.
A lovely spot for brunch or a relaxed coffee with friends. They serve breakfast all day in a cozy, welcoming space. I always go for the scrambled eggs because they’re cooked to absolute perfection.
A true Stockholm classic where you’ll find elevated versions of traditional dishes. It’s also apparently a great place for people-watching. The menu features plenty of seafood, but the meatballs are fantastic too.
A historic food hall where you can pick up meats, cheeses, and other specialties. I recommend stopping for a Skagen toast (shrimp toast) at one of the stalls. The atmosphere is warm and charming, perfect for a slow lunch.
In my opinion, this is where you’ll find the best meatballs in town. If you visit in summer, you can enjoy their beautiful terrace; otherwise, the restaurant next to the opera is just as lovely. Sitting at the bar with a comforting meal is simply a delight!
And on my list is Matateljén. I’ve tried to visit so many times, but something always came up. I keep hearing amazing things about it!
Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum
Gamla Stan
THINGS TO DO
Skinnaviksberget
Watch the sunset at Skinnaviksberget
This is one of the best local spots to catch a summer sunset, perched high on a cliff with panoramic views of the city. People bring blankets, snacks, and drinks to enjoy the evening light. It’s a romantic place for a date, but it’s just as lovely to go with friends and chat as the sun dips behind the city.
In any season, this is an area you simply can’t skip. Yes, it’s touristy, but for good reason. The Old Town is a maze of narrow streets lined with colourful, impossibly charming houses. Every corner feels like a postcard. If you go in winter, don’t miss the Christmas market in the main square. It’s busy, yes, but oh so special!
I visited this sculpture museum a few years ago and was genuinely blown away by the beauty of the studio and the surrounding grounds. It requires a short walk through nature to reach it, but it’s absolutely worth it. I think it might be my favourite museum in Stockholm.
Burner Studios
The fika selection at Rosendals Trädgård
Stadsbiblioteket
By now, you probably know: I can’t do a city break without hunting down the most beautiful workout studios. Burner is still my absolute favourite. I’ve already waxed lyrical about it in my Pilates edit blog post. The classes are genuinely challenging, the instructors are incredibly motivating, and they’ve recently opened a new, premium-feeling location in Östermalm. If you’re into Pilates, it’s a must.
Walk & Fika around Rosendals Trädgård
On a sunny day, head over to Djurgården and wander through the gardens and greenhouses at Rosendals Trädgård. Their restaurant serves delicious, local dishes, and the fika section is filled with the dreamiest pastries and buns. If you visit in the right season, you’ll be greeted by waves of red poppies. A must-do if you’re in Stockholm!
Although it’s currently closed for renovations, the Stadsbiblioteket is a paradise for book lovers. The circular design of the building creates a 360-degree panorama of books. I loved exploring it and can’t recommend it enough when it’s accessible again.
Drottningholm slott
The archipelago
Vaxholm, Stockholm archipelago
Take a boat to the Archipelago and Visit Vaxholm
Ahhh, the Swedish archipelago. Quite literally my favourite place on earth. If you’re visiting in summer, you have to take a boat out to one of the islands and spend the day swimming, eating strawberries, and just living your best life. Vaxholm is one of the easiest islands to reach. It’s about an hour by boat, and you can use regular SL public transport tickets.
Once there, I recommend heading to Norrhamnsbadet for a swim, stopping for fika at Vaxholms Hembygdsgårds Café, and enjoying a traditional Swedish lunch at Bistro Magasinet. Afterward, wander through the charming streets, grab an ice cream, and hop back on the boat to the city. The perfect summer day.
For my 25th birthday, my best friend surprised me with a day trip to Drottningholm Slott, the summer residence of the Swedish royal family. It’s set on one of the archipelago islands. You can take a bus, but we opted for the boat, which takes about an hour and makes the journey feel extra special.
Once you arrive, you can stroll through the palace gardens, enjoy a picnic, and admire the beauty of the castle. It remains one of my most memorable trips, and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
This Week’s Edit
The Åre murders (audiobook version)
I watched the first part of the TV show on Netflix, but a friend recommended trying the audiobooks. I listened to the second one during my flight home. I was completely absorbed. It’s a cozy Nordic noir crime story that never feels gruesome, which I really appreciated. I’m already planning to listen to the third book soon!
L’Occitane Shea Butter Hand Cream
My absolute saviour during the cold days in Stockholm. I had a sample of this hand cream, and it’s genuinely the most hydrating, non-sticky, non-greasy formula I’ve ever tried. Make sure to get the one with 20% shea butter. I would say it might be the best hand cream I’ve used!
House of Dagmar Long Bea Cardigan
This has been my favourite travel cardigan for years. Unfortunately, when I got back from this Stockholm trip, I accidentally threw it in the washing machine instead of hand-washing it, and it shrank. I managed to find another one on Vinted, and also messaged the House of Dagmar team, who confirmed it will also return in their SS26 collection. Despite being a little delicate (it is merino wool, after all), it’s one of the best pieces I’ve owned. The structure makes it feel effortlessly elegant.
I visited the Svenskt Tenn store during my trip, and it truly is iconic, with such a distinctive design aesthetic. When I later saw that my friend Elisabeth uses their Wishing Tree as her Christmas tree, it went straight onto my own wishlist. I love its whimsical look and the fact that you can collect ornaments over time. It’s such a special piece, and I hope to get one eventually, once I have a bit more space at home!
Love, S.
