Note 30 - The Ultimate Toronto City Guide
Happy Sunday!
Last weekend, I spent a few days in Toronto, which inspired me to finally put together a guide to some of my favourite spots in the city. My office was based there for four years, so I’ve visited often and discovered quite a few go-to addresses along the way; some of them became regulars on my visits.
Toronto always feels strikingly different from Montreal: larger in scale, a bit more polished, and with a New York–like energy. At the same time, I’m especially drawn to its quieter neighbourhoods, with their Victorian architecture and classic red-brick homes. Fun fact: the first time I visited was in 2017, when I was in the city for a publishing event, and it coincided with a Glossier Pop Up. I waited in line for quite a while somewhere on Queen St W. and was really hoping I’d bump into Emily Weiss. It just goes to show, 10 years later, things haven’t changed much.
I’ll be back once more next month before I leave Canada, but in the meantime, I hope you enjoy this recap of my weekend and my personal guide to the city.
What I Wore This Week
My first Canadian outing of the year in a trench coat. I was stopped a few times on the street, likely thanks to its distinctive oversized leather collar, elongated hem, and mix of brown and khaki tones. It’s a true stunner!
I styled it over a very “me” outfit: a navy cashmere sweater from Uniqlo, my go-to jeans from Aritzia, Totême boots, and my Aesther Ekme Half Moon bag.
Trench coat - By Malene Birger / Sweater - Uniqlo / Jeans - Aritzia / Bag - Aeyde / Boots - Totême
Everyday Delights
Hotel breakfast
Union Station
Archive Wine Bar
With the windy, unpredictable weather this weekend, we ended up spending quite a bit of time indoors. We went to the ROM museum, spent time by the hotel pool, and went to the cinema. On Friday morning, we treated ourselves to breakfast in the hotel room, which felt like such a luxury. I had eggs Benedict with smoked salmon (my all-time favourite breakfast), and it was exactly what I was craving. There’s also something so comforting about tea served in a large teapot, with enough for multiple refills. It’s a small detail, but it made the whole experience feel extra special.
On Saturday night, we met up with my friend Emily at Archive Wine Bar. I especially loved the beef tartare and the pasta. It’s definitely a spot I’d recommend for a relaxed, easy weekend dinner.
And finally, a moment of appreciation for the architecture of Toronto’s Union Station. Every time I pass through, I’m struck by how beautiful it is. There’s a real sense of grandeur that feels quite different from Montreal’s station.
This Week’s Edit
This is the film I saw at the cinema in Toronto. I was initially caught off guard by the “secret” revealed by Zendaya’s character, but the movie stayed with me for days afterward. The performances were incredible, the story deeply emotional, and I especially loved the set design.
The Starboard Sea, Amber Dermont
I finished this on the train ride home, and what a rollercoaster! I had originally bought it as a Christmas gift for my boyfriend, but I couldn’t resist reading it myself. Set at a boarding school on the East Coast, it weaves together sailing, parties, and plenty of secrets. The writing is beautiful, and the ending genuinely surprised me.
Possibly the chicest yet most comfortable-looking sandals. I only recently discovered Emme Parsons, and I’m already obsessed, especially with this pair. I love the elegant leather strap that wraps around the foot, the slightly elevated footbed, and the mix of leather and suede.
Fairy Tale Interrupted, Rosemarie Terenzio
I finished American Love Story a few weeks ago and still find myself thinking about Carolyn Bessette and JFK Jr. This memoir, written by John’s former executive assistant, is such a compelling read. She had a close view into their lives, and the behind-the-scenes perspective makes it feel especially intimate and hard to put down.
Toronto
Toronto
- My ultimate guide to Toronto -
STAY
The Ace Hotel
The Ace Hotel
Out of all the hotels I’ve stayed at in Toronto, my favourite for location and aesthetics is the Ace Hotel. It’s incredibly stylish without feeling too large, and it’s perfectly tucked between downtown and the west side of the city. The lobby bar is a lovely spot for a tea or a cocktail, and I’d also recommend their restaurant, Alder, if you’re looking for somewhere a little more elevated for a special dinner.
SHOP
Type Books
Holt Renfrew
Aritzia in Yorkville
VSP Consignment
The best independent bookshop in Toronto, in my opinion. I love the Queen Street location near Trinity Bellwoods, it’s such a lovely area to wander around. Their table of new releases and staff picks is always spot on, and I never leave empty-handed. This is where I originally found Collected Works by Lydia Sandgren, and it’s still one of my favourite books.
Canada’s most iconic department store, and the Holt Renfrew Yorkdale location in Yorkville, is well worth the detour. They carry a beautifully curated selection of brands, including my favourites: Totême, By Malene Birger, Doên, and more! And to be fair, a department store is always something I like to visit when I’m in a new city.
If you’re visiting Canada, Aritzia is a must. But among all their locations, the Yorkville store has one of the widest selections, so it’s definitely the one you’ll want to visit (unless you plan to shop online).
One of the best fashion destinations in Toronto. VSP Consignment is a secondhand designer shop with multiple rooms full of great finds. I love that they stock a mix of mid-range and higher-end brands, and it’s also a fantastic place to sell pieces. I’ve consigned quite a few items there over the years, and I’m always on the lookout for treasures.
BAKERIES & CAFÉS
Carbonic coffee
Library Coffee Roaster
Dear Grain
A really lovely spot to sit down and enjoy a coffee or tea. Carbonic Coffee has a cozy, welcoming feel. It’s perfect for a quiet break or a slow morning working on your laptop.
More of a grab-and-go stop, especially if you’re heading to the Art Gallery of Ontario next door, but so worth it. Library Coffee Roasters does great tea refreshers, and their Earl Grey with foamed oat milk is genuinely one of my favourites.
A beautiful bakery on Ossington with a light wood interior that makes it feel especially warm and inviting. Dear Grain Bakery is known for its delicious savoury pastries, along with plenty of other treats and pantry items to take home.
LUNCH & DINNER
Bar Piquette
Grape Witches
Le Swan
Lots of recommendations here, so I’ll keep it short and sweet:
Bar Piquette - Small plates, a lovely terrace, and a relaxed European feel.
Le Swan - Like an elegant French bistro and a classic American diner had a baby.
Bar Vendetta - My go-to for pasta. It’s consistently so, so good.
Taverne Bernhardts - Roasted chicken, great sharing plates, and a cozy interior.
Côte de Boeuf - The place for beef tartare and steak in Toronto. It’s small, intimate, and always a favourite.
Grape Witches - Natural wines to shop or enjoy on the spot.
Bar Isabel - Elevated Spanish tapas in a warm, lively setting.
Milou - A charming French bistro, perfect as the first stop on a Saturday evening.
416 Snack Bar - A cool, casual dive with delicious Korean fried chicken bites. My favourite when I’m meeting friends!
Bar Vendetta
Taverne Bernhardts
Côte de boeuf
THINGS TO DO
The Art Gallery of Ontario
Toronto West Side
Wild North Flowers Workshop
Toronto waterfront
The Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO)
The most interesting museum in Canada, in my opinion. The Art Gallery of Ontario is worth visiting for the architecture alone (especially for that wooden spiral staircase), but I also love the mix of exhibitions and art styles. It’s truly unmissable if you’re in the city.
Ossington St.& Trinity Bellwoods Park
Another favourite! This is the best neighbourhood in Toronto for a day of wandering. Between Ossington Avenue and Trinity Bellwoods Park, you’ll find great shops, cafés, and restaurants. It’s also the perfect place to sit in the park and people-watch for a while.
Flower Arrangement Workshop at Wild North Flowers
Such a fun activity if you’re visiting with friends. Wild North Flowers offers beautiful, hands-on workshops. The team is incredibly welcoming, and you leave with a bouquet that makes the loveliest keepsake.
If you’re in Toronto during the summer, it’s definitely worth heading to the Islands and the waterfront. Taking the ferry over is a great way to escape the city for a bit and enjoy some nature.
WELLNESS
Greenhouse
Pilatika Pilates Yorkville
One of my Montreal favourites now has a Toronto location. Pilatika Pilates Yorkville is a cozy, beautifully designed studio with the same elevated reformers, and I got such a good workout in! I find Toronto has many large commercial studios, but this boutique one is truly unique.
A go-to local spot for juices and healthy bites. Greenhouse is perfect for something quick and nourishing (and a fun fact: one of the co-founders wrote The Life Cycle of the Common Octopus, one of my favourite books from last year). There’s even a location downstairs to Pilatika.
And a bonus, two beauty destinations on my list that I’ve yet to visit:
Living Beauty - Living Beauty is high on my list for its curated selection of clean beauty brands and its beautiful interior.
Formula Fig - I’ve been wanting to try one of their beauty treatments; it looks like such a great spot for a little self-care moment.
Love, S.
