Grüß Gott, Wien!
I spent the dreamiest fall long weekend in Vienna last week, wandering through different neighbourhoods and truly disconnecting from my routine. I first visited Vienna during an August heatwave, and I remember thinking how perfect the city would be in autumn. This trip proved me right. It was also lovely to venture beyond the center, live like a local for a few days, and practice my German in person.
Vienna is a unique city. It’s defined by its appreciation for culture, its musical influences, and its café culture, plus it regularly tops the rankings of the world’s most liveable cities. I can’t quite compare it to anywhere else I’ve been. Sitting so far east, it also feels a little removed from the rest of Western Europe, with a rhythm and elegance all its own.
Hope you enjoy coming to Vienna with me in this note. Happy Sunday!
What I Wore This Week
Coat - Totême / Scarf - Totême / Boots - Aeyde
Coat - Totême / Bag - Totême / Boots - Flattered / Jeans - Weekday
Sweater - Totême / Jeans - Aritzia
I tried packing light for this weekend trip, so I ended up re-wearing most of my clothes. The trick to mastering the art of carry-on packing is bringing pieces you can rewear and mix and match. I stuck to this following list, which is the perfect winter getaway packing list in my opinion
2 pairs of jeans, 1 cream and 1 blue
2 coats, a longer black trench coat and a shorter wool one
2 pairs of boots, one more casual for walking and a heeled one for the evening
2 sweaters to interchange, one cream and one navy
4 T-shirts, a mix of short sleeves and long sleeves to have one clean one per day
Accessories: a silk scarf, 2 handbags and a small triangle cashmere scarf
Everyday Delights
Re:flow
Re:flow
Alchemy 37
The Wyld Thing
Nothing brings me more joy than trying new Pilates studios when I travel. I love taking classes in a different language and discovering beautiful workout spaces, and Vienna has no shortage of them.
My favourite was Re:flow in a stunning old building in Döbling, surrounded by a leafy garden. They have separate mat and reformer rooms, and classes are kept small, so the whole experience feels really premium. I took their mat sculpt class and loved it.
I also tried a heated class at Alchemy 37, which is definitely on the intense side, perfect if you’re looking for a tough workout. If you prefer something closer to classical Pilates, The Wyld Thing in Alsergrund is a really chic studio offering both yoga and Pilates.
There were so many more studios on my list that I didn’t have time for, so they’ll have to wait until my next visit!
Café Weimar
Café Dommayer
Café Schopenhauer
Viennese cafés are the true gem of the city. Open from morning until late in the evening, they serve everything from coffee and cake to a full meal with drinks. What I loved most was the service: always impeccably proper, it felt like stepping back in time. My favourite was Café Weimar, where we had a hearty Austrian lunch, but I also loved that Café Schopenhauer had a bookshop inside; it’s every book lover's dream.
Vineyards in the north of the city
Schönbrunn Palace Gardens
Hietzing
Our trip also coincided with the autumn colours, which made everything feel magical, whether we were strolling through Schönbrunn's royal gardens or walking among the vineyards on the edge of the city. I loved how many leafy parks Vienna has.
When doing a city trip, I love staying in an Airbnb in a neighbourhood outside the centre to get a feel for what it’s like to live there. In Vienna, I found the most beautiful flat, full of period details, and it was a dream to look out the window and watch people hop on the tram against a backdrop of 19th-century buildings. I also find it so much cozier to have my own living room and kitchen.
Shakespeare & Company
Book stamp from Shakespeare & Company
Wien Museum
Maxingstüberl
A quick round of recommendations
Shakespeare & Company for books and cozy atmosphere. It feels less touristy than the Paris one, and in my opinion the selection is better.
Wien Museum. The permanent collection is free and gives such a good background on the city’s history. I especially loved the section on the era of Sisi and the grand balls, which even hides a “secret” Klimt painting.
Maxingstüberl for traditional Austrian food. It was a friend’s recommendation and turned out to be the perfect spot atmosphere and food wise.
This Week’s Edit
I stumbled upon these traditional Dutch tiles on Pinterest, and a fireplace framed in them is my new obsession. Saving this for when I have a home to decorate.
The World of Yesterday, Stefan Zweig
I bought this in Vienna, as Stefan Zweig is one of Austria’s most celebrated writers. It’s his memoir of life in Vienna and across Europe, from the end of the Habsburg era to the Second World War. Beautifully written, and I really enjoyed it.
Nathalie Fengler’s YouTube channel
I’ve been loving her Amsterdam vlogs lately. If you’re into fitness, beautiful cafés, fashion and wellness, you’ll love them too.
Lauren Sherman on the Excellent Fit podcast
I listened to this on the StairMaster yesterday and found it so much fun. It’s rare to hear Lauren Sherman in the interviewee’s chair, talking about her own love of fashion.
Love, S.
